Martine Rose highlighted five influential fashion collections
Martine Rose recently shared insights into her career during a discussion hosted by British Vogue at London’s Lightroom. She talked about her five most significant fashion shows and the creative processes behind them. At London Fashion Week, some designers adopted unconventional presentation styles that increased their visibility. Rose was a pioneer of these unique setups, hosting shows in places like Tottenham markets and even a former gay sauna in Vauxhall. She emphasized the importance of creating spaces where people naturally gather, saying, “You’ve got to bring realness.” Rose discussed the influence of Martin Margiela’s spring/summer 1990 show, which was held in a more relaxed setting chosen by schoolchildren. This inspired her own show in autumn/winter 2017 at an indoor market, where local traders interacted with guests. She felt empowered to take risks after gaining confidence from working with designer Demna Gvasalia. One standout moment was her spring/summer 2019 show, which took place on a street in Kentish Town. Locals joined the experience, with children riding bikes down the catwalk. Rose described it as a celebration of London, noting the vibrant atmosphere and community participation. She also recounted her autumn/winter 2023 show in Florence, where she sourced local models from cafes and street teams. Rose found joy in this connection, which brought a special energy to the event. Her most recent collection was unveiled to a small group of friends and family, where emotional moments highlighted the human stories behind her designs. Rose understands the emotional power of clothing. She believes that fashion can help individuals feel seen and important, a core part of her creative approach.